Overview
You have now arrived at the Yuanmingyuan Ruins Park in the northwestern outskirts of Beijing. This is not an ordinary park, but the ruins of the most renowned imperial garden of the Qing dynasty, once called the "Garden of Gardens." After being burned down by the Anglo-French forces in 1860, it became a ruin, and today, among the broken walls and crumbling stones, you can still feel its former grandeur. The entire park is vast, consisting of three parts: Yuanmingyuan, Changchunyuan, and Qichunyuan. It is now open as a ruins park, offering both natural scenery of lakes and hills and striking historical remnants. It is suitable for all visitors interested in history, architecture, and nature, especially those who want to personally experience the "beauty of ruins" and the vicissitudes of modern history. You don't need to rush; walk slowly, look at the broken stones, and listen to the wind passing through the reeds. The weight of history will wash over you.
Stories
One of the most poignant legends about Yuanmingyuan is the story of the "Great Waterworks Twelve Zodiac Fountain." In front of the Western-style buildings stood a huge fountain pool, with bronze zodiac animal heads lining its edge. They took turns spouting water to tell the time. At each hour, the corresponding animal head would shoot a column of water, a truly wondrous sight. After the great fire of 1860, all these bronze heads were lost overseas. It wasn't until the 21st century that some of them gradually returned to China through auctions or donations. The animal heads you see in Yuanmingyuan today are all replicas, but the whereabouts of the originals remain a focus of attention for many. Another interesting tale is that Emperor Qianlong loved the landscapes of Jiangnan, so he "moved" Suzhou's Lion Grove Garden and Hangzhou's Ten Scenes of West Lake into Yuanmingyuan. That's why you'll find spots like "Streamside Rock" and "Breeze-Swept Lotus at Winding Courtyard" that imitate Jiangnan. As you walk through the garden, imagine how the emperor could "tour" all of Jiangnan's mountains and waters without ever leaving the capital.
History
Yuanmingyuan was first built in 1707, when Emperor Kangxi gifted it to his fourth son, Yinzhen (later the Yongzheng Emperor). After Yongzheng ascended the throne, he expanded it into an imperial garden attached to the palace. Subsequent emperors, including Qianlong, Jiaqing, Daoguang, and Xianfeng, continued to add to it over more than 150 years, eventually forming a grand layout covering over 350 hectares. It was not only a place for emperors to escape the summer heat and handle state affairs, but also housed a vast collection of treasures, books, and artworks, truly deserving the title of an "imperial museum." Unfortunately, in 1860, during the Second Opium War, the Anglo-French forces captured Beijing and carried out a frenzied looting and burning of Yuanmingyuan. The fire raged for three days and three nights, reducing countless buildings and cultural relics to ashes. In 1900, when the Eight-Power Allied Forces invaded, Yuanmingyuan suffered further destruction, and the remaining wooden structures and trees were completely destroyed. After that, Yuanmingyuan gradually fell into ruin until 1988, when it was officially established as a ruins park and opened to the public. What you see today is the real remains left after that catastrophe. They are not imitation ancient buildings, but witnesses to history.
Art & Design
The artistic value of the Yuanmingyuan is first reflected in the fact that it was an important subject of Qing dynasty court painting. During the Qianlong reign, court painters Tang Dai, Shen Yuan and others created the "Forty Scenes of Yuanmingyuan" paintings, using fine brushwork and colors on silk to meticulously depict the scenery of forty major scenic spots in the garden. The original set of these paintings is now kept in the National Library of France in Paris, making them precious material for studying the original appearance of Yuanmingyuan. You can see reproductions of these paintings in the exhibition hall inside the park, and comparing them with the ruins before you will give you a deeper feeling. Secondly, the stone carving art on the ruins of the Western Mansions is also worth a close look. On the remaining white marble column capitals, railings, and lintels, there are exquisite carvings of floral and leaf patterns, shell patterns, and angel figures. Although weathered by wind and rain, the lines are still smooth, showcasing the superb carving skills of Qing dynasty craftsmen. If you are interested in details, you can bring a magnifying glass and get close to the stone surface to observe the variations in depth of those patterns, as if you could touch the craftsmanship of artisans from over two hundred years ago.
Nature
Yuanmingyuan's natural scenery can be described as "lush water and verdant trees." Water covers nearly half of the park. Fuhai Lake, the Back Lake, and countless streams are all connected, with willows, peach trees, and ginkgoes lining the banks. In spring, peach and winter jasmine blossoms open along the lake shores, a mix of pink and white. In summer, the lotus flowers in Fuhai and Qichun Garden are a spectacular sight—dense leaves and drifting fragrance. You can find a bench by the lake and watch wild ducks darting among the lotus leaves. In autumn, ginkgo leaves turn yellow and carpet the paths, especially near the Western-style ruins, where a few ancient ginkgo trees create a particularly poetic scene when they shed their leaves. In winter, the lake freezes over, reeds turn brown, and with lingering snow and stone pillars, there's a stark, melancholic beauty. The garden is also home to many birds, such as egrets, mandarin ducks, and kingfishers. If you enjoy birdwatching, head to quiet corners in the early morning, and you'll often hear crisp birdsong. This nature is not wilderness; it's a landscape steeped in history. Every tree and every stretch of water seems to whisper tales of the past.
Travel Tips
For visiting Yuanmingyuan, it is recommended to set aside at least half a day. If you want to thoroughly explore the Western Mansions Ruins and the Fuhai Lake area, it is best to plan for 4 to 5 hours. The best times to visit are spring and autumn, when the weather is comfortable and the scenery is at its best. In summer, the lotus flowers are in full bloom, but be sure to protect yourself from the sun and stay hydrated. In winter, there are fewer visitors, and the ruins after a snowfall have a particularly poignant feel. In terms of transportation, take Metro Line 4 to Yuanmingyuan Station and exit from Exit B, which leads directly to the South Gate. It is very convenient. Be sure to book tickets in advance on the official WeChat account, especially on holidays, as it is difficult to buy tickets on site. A recommended route is: enter from the South Gate, first visit Qichunyuan, then cross Fuhai Lake, go directly to the Western Mansions Ruins area, and finally exit from the East Gate, so you don't have to backtrack. To avoid crowds, try to enter the park right when it opens at 8:30 in the morning, or go to the Western Mansions after 3 p.m., as tour groups usually gather in the morning. There is not much shade in the park, so in summer bring a sun hat and plenty of water, and wear comfortable shoes because you will walk on many dirt paths and stone steps. For photography, the front of the Great Waterworks is a classic spot, but it is crowded. You can walk to the piles of broken stones on both sides of the Western Mansions, where there are fewer people and great shots. There are small shops and vending machines in the park, but the selection is limited, so it is advisable to bring some snacks.
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