Overview
Six Banyan Temple is in Yuexiu District in the center of Guangzhou, tucked into the streets of the old city. Outside, the traffic is busy and lively, but once you step through the temple gate, everything becomes quiet. It was first built in the third year of the Datong era of the Liang Dynasty in the Southern Dynasties, which is 537 AD. At first it was called Baozhuangyan Temple. Later, after several name changes, it gradually became known as Six Banyan Temple in the Song Dynasty, because Su Dongpo wrote the two characters Six Banyan for it. The most eye-catching part of this temple is the Flower Pagoda. Its body is painted in red and green, and it looks especially bright in the sunlight. You can see it from far away, and it is one of the landmarks of old Guangzhou. The temple itself is not large, but the layout is compact, the old trees are tall, and the incense has always been burning strong. When you walk in, you can smell a faint scent of sandalwood and hear wind chimes and chanting. It feels as if time has slowed down. Whether you love history, enjoy ancient architecture, or just want to find a quiet place to calm your mind, Six Banyan Temple is well worth a visit. A full loop takes about an hour, and it is not tiring. Along the way, you can also soak up the everyday atmosphere of old Guangzhou. This temple does not have the noise of a big monastery. Instead, it has a small, refined charm, and it is especially suitable for first-time visitors to Guangzhou who want to experience Lingnan Buddhist culture.
Highlights
At Six Banyan Temple, the one thing you absolutely cannot miss is the Flower Pagoda. This pagoda is 57.6 meters tall, with nine visible stories, but there are actually hidden levels inside, making seventeen levels in total. It's one of the oldest surviving brick pagodas in Guangzhou. The pagoda's body is painted in red, yellow, and white, and from a distance it looks like a blooming flower, which is why it's called the Flower Pagoda. Standing in the courtyard below and looking up, you'll see the eaves rising layer upon layer, with wind chimes hanging from every corner. When the breeze blows, they tinkle softly, giving the whole scene an ancient, poetic feel. The second must-see is the plaque inscribed by Su Shi reading "Six Banyans." The calligraphy is bold and powerful, and it hangs in the stele corridor next to the Mahavira Hall. Legend has it that when Su Shi saw six huge banyan trees in the temple, he casually wrote those two characters, and later the temple itself was renamed after them. As you look at those characters, imagine what the great poet was feeling at that moment, then glance at the ancient banyan trees in the courtyard. The sense of crossing a thousand years becomes incredibly strong. Oh, and the Flower Pagoda looks most beautiful in the morning sunlight. Remember to look up from the southeast corner of the pagoda, where you can capture the layered beauty of the tower body and the flying eaves.
Stories
The name Six Banyan Temple is connected to the great literary figure Su Dongpo. In the first year of the Shaosheng era of the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo was banished to Huizhou. Passing through Guangzhou, he made a special trip to visit Jinghui Temple. At that time, an old monk lived there who had long admired Su Dongpo's literary reputation. When he saw him arrive, he quickly brought out paper and brush, hoping to get a piece of calligraphy. Su Dongpo walked around the temple and noticed six large banyan trees in the courtyard, with lush branches and a canopy of green shade. He was delighted, and with a sweep of his brush, he wrote the two characters "Six Banyans." The old monk was overjoyed and immediately had the characters carved onto a plaque to hang at the temple gate. Over time, people found the name easier and easier to say, and eventually Jinghui Temple simply became known as Six Banyan Temple. Interestingly, when Su Dongpo wrote those characters, the temple was still called Jinghui Temple, and his "Six Banyans" was originally just describing the banyan trees. Yet it ended up becoming the temple's name. The ancient banyan trees in the temple are still thriving today, but the name "Six Banyans" has never changed. It's a lovely literary anecdote.
History
The history of Six Banyan Temple goes all the way back to the third year of the Datong era of the Liang Dynasty in the Southern Dynasties, which is AD 537. At that time, Xiao Yu, the governor of Guangzhou, built Baozhuangyan Temple and a pagoda to enshrine Buddhist relics. In the Tang Dynasty, when the poet Wang Bo traveled south and passed through Guangzhou, he specially wrote a stele inscription for the temple, called the "Stele of the Relic Pagoda of Baozhuangyan Temple in Guangzhou." That shows how famous the temple already was. During the Five Dynasties period, the temple and pagoda were destroyed in war. In the early Northern Song Dynasty, they were rebuilt and the temple was renamed Jinghui Temple. Later, after Su Dongpo wrote his inscription, the temple name gradually became Six Banyan Temple. The Flower Pagoda has also been rebuilt many times over the centuries. The current pagoda body reflects Song Dynasty style, though it was repaired during both the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the Qing Dynasty, Six Banyan Temple became one of the four great monasteries in Guangzhou, with thriving incense and worship. In modern times, despite all the changes in the city, Six Banyan Temple has preserved its ancient layout, and the Flower Pagoda has been listed as a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit. You could say this temple is a condensed history of Buddhism in Guangzhou, with every brick and tile carrying the traces of time.
Symbolism
There are a few numbers and details in Six Banyan Temple that are quite interesting. First, take the 'six' in 'Six Banyan.' In Buddhism, the six senses, six sense objects, and six consciousnesses are all important concepts in practice. The six banyan trees correspond exactly to the idea of purifying the six senses, symbolizing the sweeping away of troubles. The Flower Pagoda looks like it has nine stories from the outside. In Buddhism, nine is the number of completeness, representing the boundless nature of the Dharma. The colors on the pagoda body are also meaningful: red, yellow, and white stand for wisdom, compassion, and purity. Moreover, Su Shi's calligraphy itself is an expression of Zen, with a sense of letting go and being at ease between the strokes. If you look closely, the wind chimes on the eaves ring when the wind blows, symbolizing the Dharma spreading in all directions. These details make Six Banyan Temple more than just a building; it's a place full of meaning. Next time you come, try counting the layers of the eaves and feel the intention the ancients hid in these numbers.
Architecture
The architectural layout of Six Banyan Temple is quite distinctive. Along the central axis, in order, are the main gate, the Flower Pagoda, and the Mahavira Hall. The pagoda stands in front of the hall, which is different from most temples where the pagoda is placed behind or to the side. The Flower Pagoda is a pavilion-style brick-and-wood structure, octagonal in plan. It has nine visible stories, but inside there are actually seventeen levels, with hidden levels used to enshrine Buddhist statues. The pagoda body tapers as it rises, and each level has flying eaves and railings. The eaves curve slightly upward at the corners, with bronze bells hanging from them. The most special thing is the color of the pagoda body. It is painted with red sandstone, white lime, and yellow pigment, so in the sunlight it shows a pattern of red, white, and yellow, like a brightly colored robe. That's why locals call it the Flower Pagoda. The Mahavira Hall is a Qing Dynasty building with a double-eaved hip-and-gable roof. Inside, it enshrines the Buddhas of the Three Ages, and the statues are solemn and majestic. The stone pillars and wood carvings in front of the hall preserve the refined craftsmanship of Lingnan architecture. The whole temple is not large, but the pagoda, halls, and corridors are laid out compactly. Walking through it, you can feel the ingenuity of the ancient builders. If you're interested in architecture, pay attention to the sumeru base at the foot of the pagoda, which has exquisite stone carvings.
Travel Tips
For a visit to Six Banyan Temple, about an hour should be enough. The best time is between 8 and 10 in the morning, or after 3 in the afternoon, when the light is good and there are fewer people. Take the metro to Gongyuanqian Station or Ximenkou Station, and it's about a ten-minute walk from there. Many bus routes also stop nearby. You usually don't need to book ahead to enter the temple, but on holidays there may be crowd control, so it's best to check the official notice first. Here's a suggested route: enter through the main gate, see the Flower Pagoda first, then pay your respects at the Mahavira Hall, go to the stele corridor to see Su Shi's calligraphy, and finally sit for a while in the courtyard. For photos, the best angles are in front of the Flower Pagoda and from the front of the Sixth Patriarch Hall, where you can get the pagoda and the ancient banyan trees in the same frame. Remember to dress appropriately inside the temple, and avoid wearing skirts or shorts that are too short. At the entrance, there are often fortune-tellers trying to pull you in. Just ignore them and walk straight in. There are benches inside the temple where you can rest, but no food is sold. Once you leave, head toward Guangxiao Road, where you'll find many long-established Guangzhou dessert shops. You can stop and have a bowl of double-skin milk. If you have extra time, you can also walk to nearby Guangxiao Temple and visit both places together.
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