Overview
Zhujiajiao Ancient Town is located in Qingpu District, Shanghai, sitting on the shores of the vast and misty Dianshan Lake, about 50 kilometers from downtown Shanghai. It isn't as famous as Zhouzhuang or Wuzhen, but it has kept a more down-to-earth, everyday feel of a Jiangnan water town. The town grew because of water. The Caogang River runs right through it, with whitewashed walls and dark-tiled roofs on both banks, small bridges over flowing streams. Nine long streets stretch along the river, and thirty-six ancient bridges rest on the green water, the most famous of which is Fangsheng Bridge. Its history goes back to the Song and Yuan dynasties, and during the Ming and Qing dynasties it flourished thanks to grain transport and the rice trade. Locals have a saying: 'Three Jing towns are not as good as one Jiao,' meaning Zhujiajiao was once even more prosperous than famous towns like Jinshan and Zhujing. Today, Zhujiajiao still has residents washing clothes and cooking by the river, while cafes and creative shops are dotted around, blending old-world charm with a lively present. If you like strolling through old streets at a slow pace, taking a sculled boat, and tasting authentic snacks without being swept along by crowds, Zhujiajiao is a very comfortable choice. It's great for family trips, a romantic walk for couples, or just coming alone to experience the water town at dawn and dusk.
Stories
Kezhi Garden has a rather interesting origin. The owner, Ma Wenqing, was a merchant in the late Qing and early Republic period. He did business away from home in his early years, and after building up his fortune, he returned to Zhujiajiao and wanted to create a garden that could be passed down through the family. He set a rule for himself: the garden should not only be beautiful, but also educate his descendants. So he visited famous gardens in Suzhou and Yangzhou, learning from the water features of the Humble Administrator's Garden, the rockeries of Ge Garden, and the covered bridges of He Garden. Then he hired skilled craftsmen to build it with great care, and it took fifteen years to complete. Inside the garden there is a plaque with the two characters 'Kezhi,' which mean 'after studying, don't forget to farm'—neither reading nor farming should be neglected. It's said that Ma Wenqing even set aside a small plot of farmland in the garden so his children and grandchildren could work the land themselves and understand the hardship of farming. Unfortunately, the family later declined, and the garden was abandoned for a time, until it was restored and opened to the public in recent years. Now when you walk into Kezhi Garden, you can still see the study room with the 'Kezhi' plaque hanging inside. Outside the window, banana leaves cast flickering shadows, and you can almost hear the sound of reading from those days.
History
The history of Zhujiajiao Ancient Town can be traced back to the Song and Yuan dynasties. Back then, it was just a small market by Dianshan Lake. Thanks to convenient waterways, it gradually became a distribution center for grain and cloth. By the Ming dynasty, Zhujiajiao had grown into a bustling town where merchants gathered and thousands of households bustled with activity. It reached its peak in the Qing dynasty, with rice shops, cloth shops, teahouses, and wine shops lining the streets. There was even a saying: 'three Jing towns are no match for one corner' — meaning that Zhujiajiao alone was livelier than several famous towns in Songjiang, like Zhujing and Jinshan, put together. After the Republic of China era, as roads and railways rose, water transport declined, and Zhujiajiao gradually quieted down. But that is exactly why so many ancient buildings and the traditional layout have been preserved. Today, the Zhujiajiao we see still has its Ming and Qing dynasty houses, stone bridges, and waterways largely intact. Key structures like Fangsheng Bridge, Kezhi Garden, and the City God Temple have all been restored. In 2017, Zhujiajiao was named one of China's characteristic towns by the Ministry of Housing and Urban-Rural Development, and this ancient town has taken on new life. As you walk on the bluestone-paved streets, beneath your feet are eight hundred years of time.
Culture
What makes Zhujiajiao most charming is not just the scenery, but the living folk customs. The local residents still keep the tradition of Apo tea. A few elderly women get together, set up tables and chairs, brew a pot of tea, and serve a few plates of pickled vegetables and sunflower seeds. They chat for an entire afternoon. In 2007, this tea custom was even listed as a Shanghai intangible cultural heritage. If you are lucky, you might catch a fast boat rowing performance, a traditional activity around the Dragon Boat Festival. The rowers, bare-chested, paddle hard to the sound of drums and gongs, splashing water everywhere — it gets your blood pumping. There is also a City God Temple in the ancient town. Every year on the fifteenth day of the seventh lunar month, the temple fair is the liveliest day for locals. People carry the City God statue out in a procession, praying for good weather and good harvests. These customs make Zhujiajiao feel less like a commercialized tourist spot and more like a living Jiangnan water town. You can sit down at a teahouse, order a pot of tea, and listen to the local elders chatting in their soft, gentle Shanghai dialect. That is the most authentic taste of the water town.
Architecture
The architecture of Zhujiajiao is typical of the Jiangnan water town style, but with its own character. The most eye-catching are the stilted houses built along the river. Half of each house extends over the water, half stands on the bank, with wooden pillars going straight into the river. They look like they might collapse at any moment, yet they have stood firmly for centuries. Most of these houses are two stories, with white walls and dark gray tiles. The horse-head gable walls rise and fall at different heights, and the windows facing the river are large, to let in light and air. The streets in the ancient town are very narrow. At its narrowest, North Street is only a little over two meters wide, and the eaves of shops on both sides almost touch. On rainy days, you can walk down the street without even opening an umbrella. Fangsheng Bridge is a masterpiece of architecture. It is a five-arch stone bridge with a granite deck. The arches use a thin-pier and thin-arch technique, which lightens the bridge's weight and helps with flood discharge. Kezhi Garden, on the other hand, shows an interesting blend of Chinese and Western styles. Inside, you will find Chinese waterside pavilions, rockeries, and moon gates, alongside Western cast-iron decorative windows, Roman columns, and stained glass. It is quite fun to suddenly encounter a touch of foreign flair in a classical garden. These buildings are the most tangible history book of Zhujiajiao.
Nature
The natural beauty of Zhujiajiao is inseparable from water. The ancient town is surrounded by the Caogang River and its branches. The water is not exactly clear, but it reflects the white walls and dark tiles on both banks, giving off a hazy Jiangnan charm. In the early morning, a thin mist often hangs over the river. A rowboat glides slowly by, the creak of the oars startling a few egrets into flight. To the west of the ancient town lies Dianshan Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Shanghai. The lake is wide open, and the water quality is much better than in the town's canals. On a clear day, you can see water and sky merge into one. Scattered around the town are some ancient trees, like the century-old ginkgo at the head of Fangsheng Bridge. In autumn, its leaves turn golden, adding the most beautiful touch to the ancient town. If you love nature, follow the riverside path out of town. There you will find vast rice paddies and lotus ponds. In summer, the lotus flowers bloom and frogs croak everywhere — a complete pastoral scene. Zhujiajiao has something to offer in every season. In spring, willow catkins drift in the air. In summer, trees provide cool shade. In autumn, the scent of osmanthus fills the air. And in winter, if it snows, the whole ancient town turns into an ink painting. So don't just focus on the shops. Remember to look up at the sky, and look down at the water.
Travel Tips
I'd suggest setting aside at least half a day. If you want to explore both the old town and Kezhi Garden carefully, plan for a full day. The best time to visit is on a weekday morning, or early on a weekend morning, when there are fewer tourists and the light is soft, so you'll get the best photos. From downtown Shanghai, take Metro Line 17 to Zhujiajiao Station. After exiting, it's about a 10-minute walk or shared-bike ride to the entrance of the old town. If you're driving, parking is tight on holidays, so it's best to arrive early. The old town itself is free to enter, but Kezhi Garden, boat rides, and other attractions require tickets. You can buy a combo ticket online in advance. A recommended route: start at Fangsheng Bridge, cross it, then walk along Xijing Street to Kezhi Garden, then head back to North Street for lunch. In the afternoon, take a sculled boat ride to see the old town from the water. A few tips to avoid pitfalls: North Street is packed at noon, so try to go at off-peak times. Riverside restaurants often have a minimum spend for seats by the water, so ask before you order. Also, there are many small alleys in the old town—if you get lost, no problem. Just follow the river and you'll always get back to the main street. Wear comfortable flat shoes, because your feet will get tired walking on the stone-paved roads.
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